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The first time I tasted xinomavro from a high-altitude vineyard in Naoussa, the winemaker poured it into a uncomplicated tumbler and waved closer to Mount Vermio. No pretense, only a quiet trust that the wine ought to dialogue for itself. Lunch got here off a charcoal grill, tomatoes nevertheless heat from the Greece sightseeing excursions sunlight, and feta so sparkling it broke into